64 km from Princess to Pauper.

29 Jun


Day 4 Friday. 64 kms.
I enjoyed my second beer, celebrating like a princess in our palace before retiring for the night. We were pretty relaxed about leaving our phones and GPS watches charging in the toilet. Happy to say Japan hasn’t disappointed us in the honesty stakes and we felt incredibly safe.

After a peaceful night, we climbed down from our beachside henro shelter to do the 10 kms needed to reach Temple 23. Hopefully, there will be a Sun Kus shop (like 7-11) a kilometre past it… Yay! 11 kms till breakfast… maybe.
Lots of stair training, pretty much every day.


There were loads of school kids out and about today. They were acting like they’d never seen a gaijin and were getting a kick out of saying “harro”. We played the total alien, saying “gidday” and acknowledging their attempts at Engrish.
A strange rustling in the bushes gave us our first encounter with a monkey! No photo proof, hopefully we’ll get another opportunity in the next 1,000kms.
Mid morning, we spotted a brand new Henro hut on the side of the road and went to investigate. Inside were two old ladies who insisted on making us green tea and giving us some rice crackers. The hospitality of the locals was amazing.  We were pretty keen to get moving as the next temple was not within reach today. Surely we could get to Temple 24 tomorrow morning some time….. If we believed the book it was 76 kms from Temple 23…..


Today was pretty much about skirting the coast with lovely beaches and  views.


Along the coast there were signs to tsunami shelters and what the height above sea level was. I had expected more tourism and towns along the coast, but it was pretty much deserted. Every once in a while we’d hear loud alarms ringing out. Should we be running for the hills? We had no clue.

Fireflies littered the skyline as we started to case the joint for free accommodation. It wasn’t looking good. As the light started to fade we were going along a road that wasn’t  offering any options. No choice but to put on our head torches (for safety) and keep moving.

So, this was the best we could find…
Bunkered down in a crappy bus shelter.  Dirty. Haven’t showered since Sunday. Worst hotel yet.

The view.. not quite like last night. The only excitement overnight was a few hoons (yep, Japan has a few..) racing down the street 2 metres from our bench and a truck that stopped to deliver papers to the foot of my sleeping bag. Like 10 centimetres from my feet…

Total distance in 4 days, 222kms.




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